Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate: Applications in Cosmetic Formulations and its Determination Method

General Description

Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate is a key ingredient in cosmetic formulations, particularly sunscreens, where it interacts with avobenzone to address its photodegradation issues. Despite its perceived photostability, studies indicate that diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate does not significantly enhance avobenzone's stability. The high-performance liquid chromatography method developed for its determination shows effective analytical capabilities, while skin penetration studies reveal that it primarily remains on the surface. These insights suggest that formulations with diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate may offer greater safety and performance in UV protection, warranting further research for optimization in sunscreen products.

Figure 1. Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate

Applications in Cosmetic Formulations

Introduction to Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate is a chemical compound extensively studied for its role in cosmetic formulations, especially as an additive in sunscreen products containing avobenzone. Avobenzone is a well-known UV filter effective against UVA radiation; however, it often suffers from photodegradation when exposed to sunlight. The integration of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate aims to enhance the overall stability and effectiveness of avobenzone in sunscreen formulations. This study evaluates the interaction between diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and avobenzone to determine whether it serves effectively as a photostabilizer. ¹

Photostability and Interaction Mechanisms

Research indicates that diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate does not enhance the photostability of avobenzone in formulations, despite being considered photostable itself. Employing techniques such as high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and fluorescence spectroscopy, the study has shown that diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate interacts with avobenzone through a static quenching mechanism. Additionally, the Förster resonance energy transfer mechanism, typically responsible for energy transfer between molecules, is unlikely to play a role in this interaction. While the absence of photostabilizing effects might limit the use of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate as a stabilizer, its perceived photostability makes it a valuable component in sunscreen formulations that need reliable UVA protection. ¹

Considerations for Formulation

Given the findings from the study, formulations containing diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate present unique advantages over those incorporating avobenzone alone or in combination with diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate. Although the photostabilizing effect of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate on avobenzone is minimal, the absence of phototoxic potential in combination with avobenzone is a crucial takeaway. Hence, cosmetic manufacturers may prefer formulations containing only diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate for superior safety and overall efficacy in UV protection. Future research could focus on optimizing the formulation strategies to potentially incorporate diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate alongside other stabilizing agents to bolster the efficacy of avobenzone in high-performance sunscreens. ¹

Determination Method

Development of Determination Method

The determination method for diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate is established through high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), a technique well-suited for analyzing compounds in various formulations. The developed HPLC method incorporates several key attributes, including selectivity and linearity within a concentration range of 10.0 to 50.0 μg/mL. This method was validated to confirm its precision, accuracy, and recovery rates from both porcine skin and the sunscreen formulation itself. An essential focus of a study is to analyze the in vitro skin penetration of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and its interaction with other UV filters, which is crucial for understanding its effectiveness in sunscreen applications. ²

Application and Findings on Skin Penetration

To evaluate the skin penetration profile of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and other UV filters like bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, and ethylhexyl triazone, Franz vertical diffusion cells were used in experiments. After 24 hours, results indicated that diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, along with other UV filters, predominantly remained on the skin surface, with over 90% retention. However, some penetration into the dermis and epidermis layer was observed, signifying that diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate has some potential to reach deeper skin layers. Overall, these findings contribute to the development of safer, more effective sunscreen products by adequately assessing the skin penetration capabilities of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate. ²

Reference

1. Kawakami CM, Máximo LN, Fontanezi BB, da Silva RS, Gaspar LR. Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB) as additive to the UV filter avobenzone in cosmetic sunscreen formulations - Evaluation of the photochemical behavior and photostabilizing effect. Eur J Pharm Sci. 2017; 99: 299-309.

2. Souza C, Maia Campos PMBG. Development of a HPLC method for determination of four UV filters in sunscreen and its application to skin penetration studies. Biomed Chromatogr. 2017; 31(12): 4029.

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