Nonapeptide-1 + EGCG: Reverses skin photoaging

Nonapeptide-1 is a synthetic whitening ingredient with the sequence Arg-Arg-Asp-Ser-Tyr-Pro-Tyr-Arg-Gly. Nonapeptide-1 acts as a melanocyte-stimulating hormone antagonist in the body, helping to inhibit the production of melanin, thereby reducing pigmentation and the appearance of age spots. Its mechanism is to prevent melanin synthesis by blocking the activation of tyrosinase, thereby better controlling skin color and is widely used in various whitening or freckle removal products. In addition, Nonapeptide-1 also has antioxidant properties, which can further help the skin resist environmental stress such as pollution and ultraviolet radiation.

Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) is a catechin found in green tea. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects, can fight oxidative stress, resist environmental damage, and help enhance skin vitality and rejuvenation. It is a potential skin care ingredient. However, the substance has low stability and poor bioavailability, and is easily degraded by multiple factors such as light, ultraviolet light, temperature, pH, and metal ions, so the researchers created nonapeptide-1 conjugated mesoporous silica nanoparticles (EGCG@NP-MSN) to load EGCG.

This peptide binds to the surface of MSN to target the formula to melanocytes in the skin, where it can more effectively exert its depigmenting effect. MSN can also regulate the release of EGCG and provide ultraviolet (UV) protection, with excellent photostability. Nonapeptide-1 exhibits melanin transfer interference properties and reduces melanin content in treated skin areas. In vitro and in vivo results confirmed that EGCG-loaded MSNs retained antioxidant properties, effectively scavenged melanin, and significantly reduced deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) damage in skin cells exposed to UV irradiation. Compared with free EGCG, melanin inhibition was increased by 5.22 times and tyrosinase inhibition was increased by 1.57 times. The combined use of the two can enhance the whitening effect, slow down skin aging, and effectively reverse the phenomenon of skin photoaging.

References:

[1] ZENG-JIN HUANG . Enhanced skin benefits of EGCG loaded in nonapeptide-1-conjugated mesoporous silica nanoparticles to reverse skin photoaging[J]. International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 2024, 665: Article 124690. DOI:10.1016/j.ijpharm.2024.124690.

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