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Benefits and Usage of Keratin Hydrolyzed in Hair Care

Oct 21，2024

General Description

Hydrolyzed Keratin (Keratin hydrolyzed) is the hydrolysate of Keratin derived by acid, enzyme, or other hydrolysis method. Hydrolyzed Keratin may be prepared from sheep wool. The wool is washed to remove soil and debris and then boiled to remove residual oils. Next, the wool is enzyme hydrolyzed under mild conditions for 4 to 6 hours. The pH is adjusted to neutralize the enzyme when the target MW is reached. The resultant solution is a mixture of Hydrolyzed Keratin fractions with a MW of ∼1000 Da. The solution may be diluted to produce a 30% active material[1].

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Benefits

Keratin hydrolyzed could reduce damage. It minimizes the damaging effects of sun exposure, heat styling, chemical treatments, and combing hair—tangled tresses, especially.

Keratin hydrolyzed can strengthen and protect hair. When hydrolyzed Keratin is used topically on the hair, it helps fill the minor gaps throughout the hair shaft, including its three layers known as the cuticle, cortex, and medulla. Filling these microscopic gaps with broken-down protein helps to strengthen hair's structure, thereby improving its overall elasticity.

Keratin hydrolyzed also has the benefit of fighting frizz. Studies show that hydrolyzed Keratin can improve hair's texture to look and feel smoother.

Uses

According to 2016 VCRP data, Hydrolyzed Keratin has the most reported uses of the ingredients listed in the safety assessment in cosmetic products, with a total of 667; more than half of the uses are in rinse-off non-colouring hair products. Keratin has the second greatest number of overall uses reported, with a total of 90; most of the uses are in non-colouring hair products. The results of the concentration of use survey conducted in 2015 by the Council indicate that hydrolyzed keratin has the highest reported maximum use concentration; it is used at up to 5% in hair tonics, dressings, and other hair grooming aids. Keratin is used at up to 0.075% in hair tonics, dressings, and other hair grooming aids[2].

References:

[1] E. MALINAUSKYTE. Penetration of different molecular weight hydrolysed keratins into hair fibres and their effects on the physical properties of textured hair[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2020, 43 1: i-iv, 1-112. DOI:10.1111/ics.12663.

[2] PAVEL MOKREJS PHD. The cosmetic and dermatological potential of keratin hydrolysate[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2017, 16 4: 429-548, e1-e75. DOI:10.1111/jocd.12319.