INCI： Glabridin
Glycyrrhiza glabra extract
Molecular Formula :C20H20O4
Molecular Mass : 324.376
CAS No.:59870-68-7
EINECS: 611-908-7
Structure
Functions:
1: Tyrosinase Inhibition
Human tyrosinase is an essential enzyme that regularly produces melanin, which changes
the skin or eyes from brown to black. We know that exposure of the skin to UV light causes
a number of reactions (e.g. the appearance of inflammation), and as the phospholipid membranes
of the skin tissues are damaged by the UV-induced production of reactive oxygen species,
this histological alteration manifests itself in the appearance of erythema and hyperpigmentation.
Reactive oxygen species is a substance that causes skin pigmentation, so inhibiting its production
inhibits melanin production. Light glycyrrhizin is the most expensive and effective whitening
ingredient among all whitening ingredients, "Materia Medica China" has said that the whitening
effect of light glycyrrhizin is 232 times that of ordinary Vitamin C, 16 times that of hydroquinone,
and 1,164 times that of arbutin, so light glycyrrhizin is known as the "whitening gold".
So it is called "Whitening Gold".
2:
Anti-inflammatory effect
The anti-inflammatory activity of photoglycodine was experimentally verified by exposing
guinea pigs to UV-induced hyperpigmentation and then applying a 0.5% solution of photoglycodine,
which was found to reduce skin inflammation induced by UV stimulation.
The a-value was used to indicate erythema on the skin. By recording the a-values (colourimeter readings)
before irradiation, after irradiation, and with the use of photoglycyrrhizidine,
it was possible to calculate the degree of inflammation reduction.
The researchers investigated the inhibition of cyclooxygenase activity by photoglycodine.
Cyclooxygenase is the enzyme that converts arachidonic acid into prostaglandins,
which are inflammatory factors. Compared to a control group (using the current cyclooxygenase inhibitor, indoxacarb), photoglycyrrhizidine was able to achieve inhibition of cyclooxygenase.
It is trustworthy that photoglycyrrhizidine affects the production of arachidonic acid by inhibiting cyclooxygenase, thus reducing inflammation.
3: Antioxidant effect
Photoglycyrrhiza glabra has a strong scavenging effect of free radicals. Vitamin C, vitamin E and
beta-carotene are recognised as the three kings of antioxidant and anti-aging.
Photoglycyrrhiza glabra has an anti-aging ability comparable to that of vitamin E and is a
natural antioxidant, and it has been reported that its antioxidant effect is significantly superior to
that of BHA and BHT, among others. It has been reported in the literature that liquorice can be
used to reduce corticosteroids in infectious skin diseases and can enhance the effects of steroids.
4: Cosmetic Applications
Glycyrrhizin has excellent anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antimelanogenic properties, which have led to its use as an ingredient in various cosmetic and medical treatments (e.g., creams, lotions, shower gels, etc.). It can be made into whitening creams and patented products of this type are already on the market.
Dosage: In cosmetics, in order to achieve the whitening effect, the patented recommended dosage is 0.001-3% of glycyrrhizin, preferably 0.001-1%. Add 1:10 with glycerin, at low temperature. Topical Photoglycoside inhibits melanin formation, it has excellent tyrosinase inhibiting activity, prevents tanning, line spots and sun spots, the recommended dosage is 0.0007-0.05%. Studies have shown that as little as 0.05% of glycyrrhizin, 0.3% of aloe vera powder, 1% of niacinamide, and 1% of AA2G paired with each other can inhibit melanin ligase by as much as 98.97%, and for testosterone suppression and acne treatment, glycyrrhizin should be used at a dosage of 0.01-0.5%.
China
