Description
Kojic acid is a widely used skin lighten-ing agent as it inhibits catecholase activity of tyrosinase. Derivatives of kojic acid such as kojic acid dipalmitate are easilyabsorbed through skin and are more effective than kojic acid. kojic acid dipalmitate is an effective tyrosinase inhibitor that stunts melanin production, making it a powerful skin whitening agent. It can balance skin tones, fade dark spots, and eliminate free radicals.
kojic acid dipalmitate is a topical cream formulation indicated for the treatment of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma and hyper-melanotic skin pigmentation disorders. Kojic Acid Dipalmitate can lighten the skin pigmentation and corrects discoloration in adults.
Chemical Properties
Kojic acid dipalmitate is a White to pale yellow powder, Soluble in oil, alcohol, mineral oil and esters (ethyl acetate). It is light and heat stable, while kojic acid tends to oxidize over time.
Kojic acid dipalmitate is stable within a wide pH range of 4-9, It is more easily absorbed into skin when it is incorporated into a cream as compared with kojic acid.
Uses
kojic acid dipalmitate is classified as an emollient, preparations containing kojic acid dipalmitate are said to inhibit uV-induced erythema.
Application
kojic acid dipalmitate is a diesterified derivative of tretinoin. It is considered superior to tretinoin in its whitening ability and is more stable than tretinoin in cosmetic formulations. It is commonly used in sunscreens and after-sun products, colour cosmetics, whitening products, anti-ageing products, creams and lotions.
benefits
Kojic acid dipalmitate has the advantage that it does not complex with metal ions, does not change colour, is light and heat stable and is compatible with most cosmetic ingredients. Therefore, in addition to whitening the skin, it has anti-aging properties, treats melasma, reduces scars, and has antibacterial (antifungal) benefits.
Mechanism of action
Kojic acid dipalmitate is able to inhibit skin pigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Its ability to inhibit melanin formation makes it effective in whitening darker skin or darker skin areas. Its effect is enhanced when combined with glucosamine derivatives such as N-acetylglucosamine (NAG).
Synthesis
(1) Synthesis of palmitoyl chloride: Add a certain amount of palmitic acid to a three-necked flask, dissolve it with CCl, and slowly drip PClR into the three-necked flask with a dropping funnel, stirring at a low speed to react. Maintain the temperature for the reaction, then increase the temperature for the reaction, stop the reaction and separate and remove H.PO.(2) Synthesis of kojic acid dipalmitate: Add a certain amount of kojic acid to a three-necked flask, dissolve it with acetone/pyridine solution, and then slowly drip palmitoyl chloride into the three-necked flask with a dropping funnel to react. After the reaction, wash the product first, filter it on a Buchner funnel, and repeat the washing at least 3 times. Take out the product, recrystallize it with a solvent, and vacuum dry it to obtain white, flaky crystals.
References
[1] Nishma Tanveer PhD, Naveed Akhtar PhD, Haji Muhammad Shoaib Khan PhD. “Whitening effect of kojic acid dipalmitate loaded nanosized ethosomal gel for the treatment of hyperpigmentation: In vitro and in vivo characterization.” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 21 12 (2022): 6850–6862.
